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Graffiti is not only an irritating eyesore and source of visual blight in our community, but it can be destructive for historic masonry buildings. The key to eliminating graffiti—and preventing it from reoccurring—is to remove graffiti as soon as it appears. Spray paints are the most common type of graffiti, but solvents and paint strippers capable of removing spray paints are harsh and abrasive, may discolor or stain masonry surfaces, make it more difficult to remove paint, and potentially damage the masonry. There are ways to remove graffiti, however, from all types of historic masonry without damaging the historic surface or substrate by breaking the bond between the paint and the masonry surface. This requires knowledge of 1) the materials used to make graffiti, 2) the masonry, and 3) cleaning methods and materials. The first step is to identify the type of paint. The most common graffiti materials are spray paints (Polyurethanes, lacquers, and enamels); brush-applied paints (oils and synthetic resins such as vinyls, acrylics, acetates, methacrylates, or alkyds), and permanent felt markers. But other materials can also be used, such as water-soluble felt markers, ballpoint pens, chalk, graphite and colored pencils, pastels, wax and oil crayons, liquid shoe polish, and lipstick. Paints are composed of 1) pigments, 2)binder that holds the pigment together, and 3)a solvent that allows the pigment/binder to flow. They are applied wet and harden as they dry. Therefore, the longer they are allowed to remain on the surface, the harder they are to remove. The second step to assess the condition of the historic masonry prior to beginning graffiti removal.  Masonry encompasses all types of natural stones; manufactured clay materials such as brick; and cementitious materials such as cast stone, [...]

If designed poorly, a new exterior addition to a historic building has the potential to damage or destroy significant materials and can change the building’s character.  An addition should be considered only after it has been determined that the new use cannot be met by altering non-significant, or secondary, interior spaces. If the new use cannot be met in this way, then an attached addition may be an acceptable alternative if carefully planned. A new addition should be constructed in a manner that preserves significant materials and features and preserves the historic character. Finally, an addition should be differentiated from the historic building so that the new work is not confused with what is genuinely part of the past. It is important that when planning a new addition to a historic property that the addition be compatible in size and scale with the historic building. Ideally, the addition should be made in the rear of the property and should not be visible from any public vantage points. The goal is to subordinate the addition as much as possible so as not to detract from the historic character of the original building.  The historic building should remain the dominant form, façade and experience. When constructing the addition, care should be taken to cause as little damage to the historic materials as possible. One of the most common ways to do this is to connect the historic building and the new addition via a small connector “hallway” like structure. This allows for a separation between the old and new materials and has the least amount of impact on the historic structure. Additionally it is important that the new addition looks contemporary, but is still complementary to the [...]

It is important to ensure, to the greatest extent possible, that people with disabilities are provided access to historic resources. Done well, this access can be provided in ways that do not detract from or diminish the character-defining features or integrity of the structure. This is usually achievable by altering secondary spaces, areas that have already been altered, or non-character defining spaces of a building. In a small number of cases where this cannot occur, the Americans with Disabilities Act (1990) allows for alternative methods of access. Congress established alternative requirements for properties that cannot be made accessible without “threatening or destroying” their significance. The ADA’s Accessibility Guidelines for owners of historic properties outline the method for consultation and development of alternative methods of access such as home delivery and audio-visual programs. In the vast number of cases, however, accessibility can be achieved without destroying the historic character of a historic building. When planning accessibility modifications to historic buildings the steps are to first assess the historic significance of the property and identify character defining features; assess the property’s existing and required level of accessibility; and evaluate accessibility options within a preservation context. Additionally, all applicable accessibility requirements including local codes, state codes, and federal laws should be reviewed carefully. Solutions to accessibility issues should provide the greatest amount of accessibility without threatening or destroying those materials and features that make a property significant. Modifications should be based on the following priorities: making the main or a prominent public entrance and primary public spaces accessible, including a path to the entrance; providing access to goods, services, and programs; providing accessible restroom facilities; and creating access to amenities and secondary spaces. More specific information for making [...]

Termite infestation is a problem many Hawai‘i residents have faced, and whether your home is historic or not, if it is made of wood you should routinely check for termites. Termites cause over $2.5 billion dollars in damage across the United States each year. Preventing infestations and detecting them early is the best way to protect your home. Tips to prevent and detect termite infestations before they cause irreparable structural damage include: Clean clogged gutters and downspouts Trim bushes adjacent to the house Watch for bubbling paint, crumbling dry wood, and tiny holes in walls Seal all cracks in the foundation or utility openings Monitor damp areas inside the home Fix faulty or leaky plumbing Schedule annual inspections Annual inspections are essential to preventing termite damage. They are relatively inexpensive and can save you thousands of dollars in the long run. The best way to fix termite damage is to stop it early, but if you find that you house has severe termite damage that has gone unnoticed for a long period of time the damage will need to be assessed by a structural engineer who can determine the extent of the damage and if it can be repaired. For non-structural wood elements, termite damaged wood should be preserved and repaired or, if necessary, replaced with new wood similar in appearance to the existing. Repairs can be made to strength termite damaged wood using epoxies. These should always be tested first in a non-conspicuous area to ensure that they are compatible. A professional should be consulted when making structural repairs to a termite damaged house to determine the best course of action.

If you are buying a home, especially one that is older, or have never had your wiring inspected, it is a good idea to hire a licensed electrician to inspect the wires in the house.  He or she can tell you if any of the insulation has been eaten away, or if it is dried out or fraying.  Don’t be alarmed if the inspection turns up code violations. Each time the electrical code is revised, old wiring is “grandfathered,” on the assumption it was installed correctly. Code only requires updates to wiring in rooms being gut-renovated. Today’s standard household wiring is a plastic-sheathed, insulated three-wire cable.  But the vintage copper wiring in many older houses works just as well as the new stuff, as long as it’s in good condition and hasn’t been altered in a way that violates code. Other types of wiring include Knob-and-Tube, Armored Cabel (Bx), Two Wire plastic-sheathed cable, and aluminum wiring. Knob-and-Tube is the earliest residential wiring system and was commonly used between the 1880s and 1930s. It has a cloth-covered hot wire and a neutral wire, which run parallel about a foot apart. Ceramic knobs anchor the wires to the house framing; ceramic tubes are used where wires cross or penetrate framing. Knob-and-Tube wiring cannot be grounded or spliced into a grounded circuit. Its soldered connections may melt if too much current flows through them. Therefore, it is not always capable of handling the electrical load required to operate all of the electrical appliances used in modern households. Armored Cable (Bx) was the successor to Knob-and-Tube. A flexible steel sheath covers hot and neutral wires, which are insulated with cloth-covered rubber. The sheath provides a ground, so grounded receptacles [...]

Wood windows are common to many historic homes in Hawai‘i. Most are either double-hung or casement style windows that contribute greatly to the historic character of the house. The preferred option is always to repair and maintain the existing windows if possible. If they are deteriorated to the point where replacement is necessary the replacement should be in keeping with the character of the original. This means that wood windows should be replaced with wood windows that are similar in appearance in terms of the number of panes and the window type (casement, awning, double-hung, etc). Often people will look at modern materials such as vinyl or aluminum as an option for replacement. There are a number of reasons why these are not good replacements for historic wood windows.  Firstly, they may drastically change the appearance of the house, detracting from its historic character. Secondly, wood windows have a longer life span if properly maintained. A historic wood window can last one hundred years, while many new replacement window materials may not last twenty-five years. Thirdly, wood windows made before 1940 are often made of separate pieces that can easily be repaired and replaced without having to remove the whole window. With vinyl or aluminum the whole window will usually have to be replaced. While many feel that replacing their historic windows is an energy efficient option, studies have shown that it could take approximately two-hundred forty years to recoup enough in energy savings to cover the cost of replacement windows. Additionally, windows containing vinyl or PVC are toxic to produce and create toxic by-products. It is more environmentally friendly to repair your historic wood windows.