The National Trust for Historic Preservation selected five historic small restaurants on Maui for grant support in response to the economic impacts from the 2023 fires.
Small businesses on Maui, heavily reliant on tourism, have weathered a series of devastating challenges over the past five years. The onset of the Covid-19 pandemic led to travel restrictions, which resulted in widespread unemployment and the closure of numerous restaurants. While the easing of the pandemic brought some relief, labor shortages and soaring product prices quickly placed new pressures on already struggling enterprises.
In August 2023, the island was hit by catastrophic fires in Lahaina and Kula, further stalling tourism and economic recovery. Against this backdrop, the National Trust for Historic Preservation, funded by American Express, launched a special grant program aimed at revitalizing historic restaurants on Maui.
The initiative, an offshoot of the “Backing Historic Small Restaurants” program that started in 2021, offered $40,000 renovation grants to five selected eateries. The goal was to support these establishments in preserving their historical significance while navigating the financial strains of the past few years. The Trust worked closely with the Historic Hawaiʻi Foundation to identify and encourage potential grant recipients. HHF Trustees met with several of the grantees to encourage them to apply and to refine their applications.
The selected restaurants, each representing different phases of Maui’s rich history, are essential community fixtures. The grants have not only provided financial relief but also renewed hope and optimism for the future of Maui.
The selected restaurants are:
Ichiban Okazuya is a traditional Japanese delicatessen near Wailuku. Established in 1982 in what was once a plantation house, it is one of the last remaining okazuya eateries on the island. Co-owner Tony Masa Sasaki expressed immense gratitude for the grant, which allowed him to complete vital structural repairs that had been delayed for years due to financial constraints.
“We are nothing but grateful.” ~Yu Sasaki, co-owner Tony Masa Sasaki’s daughter
Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, a plantation-style eatery in Olowalu, is known for its homestyle comfort food from the 1950s. Leoda’s will use the funds to repair windows, refurbish signage and repaint.
Mala Ocean Tavern, is an oceanfront restaurant in Lahaina located in a 102-year-old building that miraculously survived the devastating fires. Owner Javier Barberi said, “We made it through Covid and then it was over and then the fire came and tried to burn us down.” With the $40,000, he plans to invest in exterior lighting and landscaping.
“We made it through Covid and then it was over and then the fire came and tried to burn us down…For a small business, that’s a lot for us, we work on a razor-thin margin. It makes a big impact.” ~owner Javier Barberi
T Komoda Store & Bakery in Makawao, named after founder Takezo Komoda, started in the family kitchen in 1916 before moving to its current location in 1932. Manager Betty Shibuya plans to use the funds for exterior improvements, including uncovering a historic window that had been too costly to fix. Shibuya was initially doubtful of the offer but was convinced by longtime customers to apply.
“I couldn’t believe we got the money, that we were selected, I couldn’t believe that it was really true.” ~founder Takezo Komoda
‘Ulupalakua Ranch Store in Kula, which offers grilled meats and outdoor dining on a picturesque mountainous slope. The ranch has been a staple of the community since the 1850s. The grant is used to provide new seating in the outdoor dining area.
The National Trust’s senior director of preservation programs, Seri Worden, emphasized the importance of helping local businesses recover and thrive. “We just wanted to try to be helpful to the local businesses,” said Worden.
Editor’s note: This article appears in the Historic Hawai‘i Foundation March 2025 newsletter.
Above: T. Komoda Store and Bakery in Makawao’s front façade before (left) and after restoration (right).
Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop
Mala Ocean Tavern
Ichiban Okazuya
‘Ulupalakua Ranch Store (courtesy photo)
